Mechanism of action
This commentary compiles the available scientific information, existing literature and PeptanTM clinical studies results. PeptanTM is a completely characterized and objectivized bioactive ingredient that improves epidermis moisture content and prevents skin aging.
Hydrolyzed Collagen from fish, porcine or bovine origin is currently used in various fields including functional food, beverages and dietary supplements. Several studies, including Rousselot in vitro assays, have demonstrated that Hydrolyzed Collagen is highly digestible. If native collagen is very resistant and regarded as indigestible, Hydrolyzed Collagen can be easily attacked by proteolytic enzymes. More than 90% of the hydrolysates are digested and quickly absorbed after oral ingestion (2 & 3). As a food ingredient, oral ingestion of Hydrolyzed Collagen has been reported as safe.
In order to be active, Hydrolyzed Collagen must have an excellent bioavailability. This has been confirmed in animals and human after oral administration: 95% was absorbed within the first 12h. Radioactivity in cartilage attained its peak value 12h after the oral administration of 14C labeled Hydrolyzed Collagen, and in contrasts to plasma, 14C-activity remained
relatively high after 96h. Hydrolyzed Collagen derived hydroxyproline paptides appeared in human blood after 12h fasting. Their amount increase after Hydrolyzed Collagen intake with a peak level after 2h and then decreased to half after 4h from the ingestion. Proline0-Hydroxyproline (pro-Hydro) can be considered as one of the indigestible paptide against paptides in human blood since 75% of Pro-Hydro remainded after the in vitro reaction with human serum for 24h. WHen type I collagens are digested by collagenase, the resultingpeptides are chemo-attractants for fibroblasts. Chemotactits response of dermal fibroblasts of collagen derived peptide was quantified trough an in vitro assay.
In addiction, synthetic di- and tri-peptides containing Hypro were also chemotactic. Collagen peptides may act as messenger and trigger the synthesis and reorganization of new collagen fibers by stimulating fibroblast cells. Furthermore, some studies show that Hydrolyzed Collagen increases the fibroblast density and the diameter of collagen fibrils in the dermis. Hydrolyzed Collagen may improve the machanical strength of the skin by increasing decorin ratio. Decorin interacts with collagen and influences collagen fibrillogenesis, thus regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. Rousselot clinical studies show that Peptan increases skin suppleness which could come from the better cohesion of collagen fibers. Some clinical studies have shown that the oral intake of 5 to 10g per day of Hydrolyzed Collagen may have a positive effects on human tissues containing collagen such as skin. The moisture content of forearms and backs of the necks increased significantly. This implies that ingestion of Hydrolyzed Collagen improves the function of the outermost part of the epidermis. Skin's relief was also improved. Those results were perfectly in line with Rousselot clinical studies: Peptan improves skin's hydrationand smoothness. Therefore it might boost epidermis cells turnover, speeding the water moves through the skin layer, improving the water-binding function of the outermost part of the epidermis and preventing the formation deep-wrinkles by stymulating collagen synthesis.